In the 1960s and 70s, Tham Yew Kai was a household name in Singapore. His restaurant, Lai Wah, was packed with ardent fans of authentic Cantonese cuisine; his voice was heard over radio and Rediffusion teaching the techniques of good Chinese cooking; and he frequently appeared at community centres to conduct cooking classes. But most of all, he was famous as a member of the “four heavenly kings” who created the most colorful and festive of Singapore’s national dishes: Lo Hei.
The four renowned chefs—who were to remain steadfast friends all their lives—met as trainee chefs in the kitchen of the Cathay Restaurant back in the 1950s. The Cathay Restaurant was located in one of the tallest buildings on Orchard Road, and, at the time, was the most prestigious fine-dining restaurant in Singapore.
After the death of their teacher in 1962, Chef Tham and Chef Lau Yoke Pui left the Cathay Restaurant to open Lai Wah Restaurant, first at Tiong Bahru and later at Bendemeer Road. The restaurant was an instant success; and building on his fame Chef Tham took on other roles, including that of teacher and celebrity chef. He also became a prolific author, penning more works than any other cookbook writer of his era.
Having forged successful careers, the four chefs kept very close ties with each other and would meet weekly to talk about business and share recipes. Lo Hei began as an idea mooted to help boost sales during the Chinese New Year. The initial customer reaction to the new dish was not encouraging; however the four chefs persevered and Lo Hei went on to become their biggest single contribution to Singapore culinary history.
Although Chef Tham’s training was in classical Cantonese cooking, his repertoire included Malay, Indian and Western recipes—but always with a twist of his own.
Roast Pork Loin
750 g pork loin
Marinate:
1/2 Tbsp salt
1 tsp Vet-sin, optional
6 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp golden brown powder (diluted with 1 Tbsp of hot water)
1 Tbsp maltose
1/2 Tbsp light soy sauce
1 tsp black soy sauce
2 Tbsp water
Method:
1. Marinate pork with the seasoning for about 5 hours or more.
2. Preheat oven at 175°C.
3. Place marinated pork in the oven and roast for 5 minutes. Remove the meat, place it in the marinate again and turn it thoroughly.
4. Continue to roast the pork for about 25 to 30 minutes.
5. Rest the meat and slice it thickly.
Note: Replace golden colour powder with 1 Tbsp of black soy sauce if necessary.
Broiled Prawns
500 g prawns
30 g ginger
3 sprigs spring onion
1 garlic
3 tsp corn flour 1/2 Tbsp water
Sauce:
6 Tbsp water
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp vet-sin
1 1/2 tsp sugar
2 tsp white soy sauce
1/2 Tbsp oyster sauce
1 tsp black sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
pepper
Method:
1. Fry prawns with oil until both sides turn red.
2. Add ginger, spring onions, and fry until aromatic. Add Chinese wine and sauce.
3. Simmer for 1 minute and thicken the sauce with corn flour mixture.
4. Serve immediately.
Almond Jelly
25 g Agar agar
500 g sugar
1 Tbsp almond essence
1 1/2 Tbsp gelatin
1 tin evaporated milk
Method:
1. Soak agar agar for 3 minutes, and drain thoroughly.
2. Mix gelatin with 1 cup of water.
3. Boil agar agar with the remaining water. Add sugar and gelatin mixture.
4. Strain the mixture. Add almond essence and evaporated milk.
5. Pour into a mould and chill it until it is set.
6. Serve the jelly with canned longan.
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